Bac Ha Bingle
Northern Vietnam Motorbike Adventure: A Tale of Drama and Resilience
In September 2009, our group of four embarked on an epic motorbike journey through northern Vietnam, starting in Hanoi and venturing into the breathtaking landscapes near the Chinese border. From typhoons to near misses and hospital drama, the trip tested our endurance and left us with unforgettable memories.
The Journey Begins: Hanoi to Sapa
After a week in Vietnam, we hired motorbikes in Hanoi and set off to explore the north. The ride was nothing short of spectacular—winding roads, lush landscapes, and a culture rich in beauty and history. We rode through challenging conditions: dust, mud, rain, and even a typhoon. The highlight of this leg was Sapa, a charming mountain town that offered stunning vistas and a sense of serenity.
A Typhoon and the Ride to Lao Cai
Leaving Sapa, we encountered the tail end of a powerful typhoon. Cold, soaked, and uncomfortable, we arrived in Lao Cai, near the Chinese border. As we emptied water from our boots and warmed up with what the locals called coffee—an unforgettably bitter brew—we laughed at our soggy predicament.
Crossing the Song Hong River into Lao Cai was another adventure. Stuck in an immense traffic jam on the bridge, we noticed locals using the narrow sidewalk as a motorbike lane. Deciding to follow suit, we squeezed through pedestrians and bikes. Halfway across, we faced an unexpected standoff with riders coming from the opposite direction. By the time the issue was resolved, the main bridge traffic had cleared, leaving us stuck and laughing at our predicament.
The Crash on the Road to Bac Ha
The road to Bac Ha was smooth and scenic as we climbed back into the mountains, but disaster struck on a hairpin turn. One of our group, Phil, went wide on a corner, narrowly avoiding a head-on collision with an oncoming van. Forced to veer further off the road, he crashed into the rocky mountain wall.
Phil was lucky to be alive. He suffered a broken arm and was in visible pain. Our guide, Luke, sprang into action, calling for an ambulance and arranging transport for Phil’s damaged bike. Within hours, we had a crowd of locals and police on-site, turning a remote accident into a bustling scene.
A Long Night in Lao Cai Hospital
The ambulance eventually arrived—a basic van with minimal medical supplies. Phil, drifting in and out of consciousness, was given painkillers, and we followed the ambulance to the hospital in Lao Cai.
The hospital was chaotic, with no staff available to assist. We became makeshift nurses, carrying Phil inside and helping the radiologist position his arm for X-rays. The hospital required cash upfront for all procedures, and a well-placed “tip” expedited Phil’s treatment.
Returning to Hanoi
Luke sourced the necessary medical supplies to stabilise Phil’s arm while the rest of our group arranged to ship the bikes back to Hanoi. With our motorbike adventure officially over, we hired a van for the gruelling eight-hour drive back to Hanoi. Exhausted, dirty, and hungry, we arrived at the French Hospital at 4:00 am, where Phil could finally receive proper care.
Lessons Learned on the Road
- Prepare for Anything: Adventures like these often come with unexpected challenges, from weather extremes to medical emergencies.
- Travel with Support: Having a local guide like Luke proved invaluable in navigating emergencies and language barriers.
- Embrace the Journey: Even the mishaps become part of the story, turning an ordinary trip into a memorable adventure.
The Spirit of Adventure
This motorbike journey through northern Vietnam was a rollercoaster of emotions—thrilling, challenging, and rewarding. Despite the setbacks, the breathtaking landscapes and camaraderie made it a trip to remember.
Share Your Own Adventures
Have you had a travel experience that tested your limits and left you with unforgettable memories? Connect with me on social media to share your story and inspire others to embrace the road less travelled.
